How do I make a special shirt

Screen printing transfer

The fine powder sticks to the paint. Leftovers can be poured back into the container. The glue is briefly gelled under the action of heat to dry the prints and make them stackable. The transfer prints created in this way can be stored for several months and, if necessary, pressed onto textiles. Our transfer adhesive can be used with both plastisol paints and watercolors.

It is common to use a 43T-64T screen mesh for mirror-inverted printing on transfer paper. This ensures that enough ink can be doctored onto the transfer paper. When coating the screens, it should be noted that a thicker copy layer has to be applied compared to direct printing on textile. This prevents the higher amount of paint, which we press e.g. through the 43T sieve, from running under the edges of the stencil.

The glue on the print must now be gelled. The pressure is exposed to a temperature between 100 - 120 ° C for 12-15 seconds. This can be done with a transfer press, for example. The purpose is to allow the paint and glue to dry briefly so that the prints can be stacked and do not stick together.

This is quite a critical point. On the one hand, the paint and glue must have gelled enough that the surface is firm. On the other hand, avoid heating for too long as the paint would otherwise dry out completely and then no longer stick to the shirt. In the worst case, it would crumble.

So we coat our 43T frame on both sides with the photo emulsion Easy Blue and let the emulsion dry thoroughly (at least 3 hours at room temperature). When coating, please always coat the print side (outside) first and then the squeegee side (inside). Here it is advisable to coat several frames at the same time. Please make sure that you coat the squeegee side twice. After drying, exposure can now be carried out and after exposure it can be printed on transfer paper with HyprPrint plastisol paint or HyprPrint TEXPRO water paint. After printing, please apply the adhesive directly to the paint and distribute it well by swiveling the sheet. First pour the hot melt adhesive through a fine sieve to avoid lumps.

Adjustment of the heat press

To gel the adhesive, first take the silicone mat from the table of the transfer press. So you can put the transfer paper on the table and lower the heating plate better without touching the paper and the print with the plate. Set your heat press to 140 ° C and the timer to 15 seconds. Now place the printed paper on the press table and lower the heating plate so that there is about 1 cm of space between the paper and the plate. Some practice is required here. After 15 seconds you take the paper off the table. Your transfer paper should now cool down briefly and is then stackable.

You can tell whether you have dried your transfer correctly by removing the pressure from the paper with your fingers. The print must be easy to peel off in one piece, but must no longer be damp. If the print is difficult to peel off and crumbles when you try, the ink has already dried out too much and is no longer suitable for transferring to a textile.

When heated correctly, the paint and glue can be completely removed from the paper without leaving any residue.

Transfer to textiles

The print can now be pressed onto a textile with the transfer press. Put your textile on the press table (don't forget the silicone mat) and then place your transfer on the textile. A temperature of 140 ° C. for 10 seconds has proven to be reliable for the transfer. So keep the press closed for 10 seconds. The hotmelt adhesive sticks to textiles made of cotton, polyester and mixed fabrics.

Avoid drying in the tumble dryer. Likewise washing at a temperature above 30 ° C.

If you would like to make your own transfers, we can put together a corresponding set for you. Just contact us!

These instructions are based on our own experience.