How does the freezing of water cause flashes of frost?
Feed to the outbuilding
Close, but not a banana
You are near a correct build here, but there is a problem: your stated cable installation depth is for PVC under normal conditions too low . Code requires the top of the conduit to be 18 "underground if you are walking through a courtyard, so you will have to dig up to 20" deep.
Also, I would use a 1 "or 1.5" pipe here to make it easier to pull, and schedule 80 instead of 40, as the former is more resilient to mechanical damage than the latter. You'll also need a pair of pre-made wide-angle bends to bring the barrel and expansion fittings up at the junctions to accommodate earth movements.
As for the wires - 8AWG THWN is a suitable wire size (here a little more than absolutely required, but okay) and you must four Laying wires in the line: two hots, a neutral conductor and a ground conductor - the ground is of vital importance here as it is a completely different and complementary Functions as the floor bar in the outbuilding. (That is, the ground wire returns erratic utility power the original way, while the ground rod serves to return surges naturally (also known as lightning) to solid terrain.)
Why 240V? That way you can distribute the loads on the two legs of the feeder, reduce the voltage drop and provide 240V for the next guy who owns the space.
The part about laying the entire cable duct and that subsequent Pulling the cable through is important to avoid damaging the cable insulation and avoiding excessive sheathing. You can use a shop to suck up a foam "mouse" (or even a plastic bag in a pinch) tied on a piece of string through the conduit to serve as a pull cord, and then tie the string to the wire and use it it to pull it off again.
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